11 June 2005 Saturday
MAINZ. More sailing, bumps during the night and we made our way through the various locks. The River Harmony is lifted or lowered by means of a system of locks. From time to time we push aside our cabin curtains to find that we are staring at walls less than 8 inches from our window. We will be passing through a total of 66 locks altogether!
The most memorable feature of Mainz was the Gutenberg Museum. We knew this as we prepared ourselves for the walking tour armed with our daily agendas, information sheets and the map of Mainz. My mother on this day was walking more slowly and leaning heavily and complaining lightly when I had to pull her along while in the middle of the street with traffic waiting. I have to say that the numerous bicycles of Amsterdam have long ago lessened, and we no longer really have to worry about the killer bikes. Now, it is the barely patient natives of the town, waiting on the narrow streets to speed away after we slowly navigate our party across. Remember that our large group is usually split into the three so we are rarely the ENTIRE group at any one place at the same time.
In Mainz, we came ashore and walked. Overheard a wonderful young singing group in one of the many squares, three rows of singers swaying to African songs of their own performance. Lots of people walking about.
The cathedral at Mainz was particularly grim, and felt odd. Later I would realize that there were two altars and we were entering on the side. The uncomfortable feeling I had was probably enhanced by the jacketed people standing at the donation boxes at each of the side chapels. Left no money there! We toured ourselves silently while the local tour guide waited outside for us. In and out. Meanwhile we made our way to the Gutenberg Museum, a modern building with three large metal panels with various interpretations of the printed word.
Tickets paid and then the demonstration of the movable printing press was given by our guide who athletically pulled and pushed and worked the enormous wooden press. Black and red letters. We all sat obediently and properly oohed and aahhed as the printed paper was pulled from the bed. One lucky man of the group (John) was awarded the sheet and we were led to the next exhibit. 180 Gutenberg Bibles were created and now only 49 exist including the one bible that UT owns. We saw the hide of an unfortunate calf stretched and had the appalling mathematical realization of how many calves hides were needed to create the 180 bibles. There are two rubbing tools that look like two large burnishers to work the ink in well to the type. And these two leather tools are made from the skin of the dog's belly because there are no pores on that part of the canine. Poor puppy. I don't think you need to share that information with Ostia.
I realized that if I was interested in the museum shop that I would have to slip away downstairs, so I told my mother that I was going to the shop downstairs and that she should meet me down there. What I didn't know was that my mother was not aware of the location of the store even though it was just down the stairs. The museum store door was locked, with us inside as the last customers of the day. I could see my mother through the glass door, but she could not or did not see me. So while I was finishing up, she was outside by the statue of Johann Gutenberg panicking. The young Asian clerk, who spoke flawless German and English, was busy tending to us and adding some freebies to my bag, did not go as quickly as I would have liked, so by the time I finished up, mommy had worked herself into a small lather. "I could see you the entire time," I told her, but she was enormously relieved when she caught sight of me.
Walk back to the ship and quiet evening meal. My mother was somewhat undone by the Gutenberg experience and so when I asked if she wanted to cancel her portion of the Heidelberg tour, which I knew would entail some walking, she was very relieved.
posted by Articulate Pen @ 12:39 PM
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