12 June 2005 Sunday
HEIDELBERG
The next day, breakfast as usual, but then we split into the tour group to the Heidelberg Castle and our bus, and the group that would walk to Heidelberg with one of the guides. As this was a Sunday, my mother went to St Stephens church to look at the Chagall windows. They had to return to the ship by noon, as it was to sail to Frankfurt. Our bus would meet the group in Frankfurt after our castle visit.
Two buses left for the castle, and Katya, our guide told jokes and relayed light information about the area. After one hour on the autobahn, we pulled off to Ladenburg and the MercedezBenz Automuseum. A museum full of vintage convertibles, racecars, touring cars, motorcycles, bikes, typewriters, radiator grills, gramophones etc. I looked over the meager items for sale thinking that daddy would love something of this, I found nothing but PERHAPS one of the silk ties, which were so hidden that even the saleman didn't remember they were there. No. I didn't like the width, nor did I like the pattern and all I could think of was that I would be able to find this at a different time, for a different price. 30 minute bathroom stop and then we re-boarded and were off much lighter and relieved.
The Heidelberg Castle was at the top of a winding road, and our bus driver skillfully negotiated the turns and then the full turn to get into a rather improbably diagonal parking spot parallel to other touring buses. By then there were many busloads of tourists, and we joined the throngs following the GCT blue flag.
Walk walk walk up up up and when we reached the top, past souvenir shops and icecream shops, we saw the gate erected (supposedly in one night) by one of the many many Frederichs for his beloved English wife Elizabeth Stewart. Fortifications, portcullis, watch tower, garrisons etc. and a significant part of this was destroyed by lightning. We went into the large square within the castle walls, and were told that weddings and performances took place here. Imagine that! On the posted schedule in mid June was (!!!) the Carmina Burana! More cobbled stones and paths, terraces that overlooked Heidelberg and the wonderful Main River and the tight tight buildings.
There was one rather morbid tale of the architect’s two young sons who had unwisely not listened to their father’s warnings about playing around the high ladders etc. Tragedy resulted and the grieving father refused to continue work on the castle until a dream came to him and he had carved the stone shield with his two sons with angel wings that hung over one of the doorways. Certainly a morality tale for any and all children, especially those of architects!
There was an absolutely gorgeous view of Heidelburg from one of the terraces. Densely packed rooftops, squares, neat buildings. Everything looks so toylike from the distance. We gather around some particular dents in the stone terrace and Katya tells the tale of an errant knight visiting the queen and his hasty retreat upon the king’s return. A jump from one of the high window and the escape! One wonders how much of history is merely clever fiction!
Quick stop at the shops before we reboarded the bus and had lunch at the Kulturbraerer, a charming restautant with its own brewery and a set menu for us. As usual, only the vegetables for me. I thought about how our boys would have loved the sausages and the dark breads. In fact, the entire trip would have been an EAT-O-RAMA for both of them.
Local guides were provided for our trip through Heidelburg. Our group is further divided into four groups with whom we were able to see fountains and the squares and Sunday crowds of Heidelberg.
Particularly memorable was the newly renovated Jesuit church with bright white walls and crystal chandeliers. After so much heavy stone in the churches and cathedrals, this church was remarkable modern, with dark wood pews with no ornamentation at all. I found it refreshing. The tour guide also showed us a sign for bar or bordello whose text faced one way but whose side facing the church was completely blank. I guess they didn’t want to upset the Jesuits!
There was a fascinating Student Prison for rowdy students of the 17th and 18th century University of Heidelberg which had then become the chic place that all students HAD to spend a week or so during their university sojourn. Up narrow stone stairs and small dark chambers with uncomfortably narrow beds, almost every square inch of the smoke-smudged walls was covered in signatures and shadow profiles and presumably witticisms from generations of students. ‘Inmates’ were allowed to have guests and fellow students took class notes for them during their brief colorful stay. One can just imagine the candles and black paint! How some of those profiles were painted on some of the more difficult to reach corners one can only guess!
We re-board the bus at the designated time and as usual, no one is late. I am impressed with our general punctuality and have decided that the River Harmony has a particularly considerate group of travellers. Considerate and prompt, which I am certain is not always the case for all groups.
Katya reads jokes to us over the bus intercom all the way back to the ship. Just outside the Frankfurt city limits, K’s cell phone rings and we are told that the ship has just docked and we arrive at almost exactly the same time. Perfect timing. I only wish I could remember some of those jokes and sayings I’d heard.
Our bus drove very briefly from the autobahn into the city, which seemed very modern and very populated. We have become so accustomed to the small scale city, that I know I had no interest in investigating this place. It is different to understand a land through its waterways. It all makes sense. We barely touched Frankfurt soil and were immediately off again.
Dinner and then sleep.
posted by Articulate Pen @ 1:38 PM
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