14 June 2005 Tuesday
Wurzburg
The River Harmony arrives at Wurzburg at bit early, and we are able to walk around before lunch. I am reminded again how fabulous it is to be able to daily walk off the ship AND to be able to always see land on either side of us. Very civilized. My mother and I follow the group to the bridge and then veer abruptly to right, just to poke around on our own. It is a busy city with people beginning to take their mid day meals. Bookstores, jewellers, pharmacies, offices and schools. It is a bustling place.
We walked away from the river and then turn parallel to the water for a time before turning back again. As long as one is oriented to the water, one can really never get lost UNLESS one wants to!
We will remember this town for its remarkably exuberantly elaborate Wurzburg Residence of the prince-bishops. The bus let us off in the square in front of the magnificent residence, and we were met by yet another local guide. Katya had suggested that we imagine ourselves guests of the prince-bishops, with horses and carriages as our transport. One could just see an enormous entourage with servants and ladies in waiting, footmen etc.
As most of these cities and towns, 80% of this town was destroyed by Allied bombing. An American officer Skelton (sp) assessed the aerial damage of this elaborate residence of mirrored halls and tapestries and frescos and marbled staircases and opulence. He then had a wooden roof structure constructed that kept the rest of the castle from being thoroughly water damaged. He is remembered well for his forethought.
Thus we were all properly impressed and overwhelmed by the level of expense and conspicuous consumption of these noblemen. The buildings are now protected by UNESCO and millions of dollars are being poured into its extensive renovation. Even as we toured, we saw the electronically programmed scaffolding for the fresco restoration. It is truly an enormous project. Room after room was more magnificent than the next – no expense spared.
We also saw the private chapels of the residence, and noted once again the resplendent gold leaf and elaborate carving and paintings. We could take no photographs in the residence, especially around the Tiepolo frescoes, but we were permitted to take photos of the chapel. I bought postcards of both since my photographs would do no justice.
The palace gardens boasted topiary pines and such lovely flower beds that I know that Mommy will surely decide to pull up all of her flower beds and start all over again!
Notable too was the trip to the Juliusspital where there was a well-known winery associated with the renowned hospital. Roetgen was one the Nobel-Prize winning scientists associated with the University of Wurzburg. Roetgen, clever fellow, is credited for the discovery of the X ray.
Wine for health – we say to ourselves during this hospital visit. We had a chance to descend into the wine cellars that were beneath length of the hospital itself. Free wine tasting of three different wines. The first Franconian wine was very dry, the second more fruity and the third even more sweet. A dessert wine. Dark bread was available and then stillwasser to clean the palate.
Now quite jolly and a little wobbly, we walked amidst the huge oaken wine barrels, some of which were heavily carved. It is a miracle than none of us stumbled and not a single one of us dropped any of our wine glasses! My mother and I ended up with a total of 4 wineglasses, which we may or may not be able to transport safely back to the US. Mommy and I did not buy any wine but I felt better when many of our group did buy wines.
Later Katya would tell us that the young woman who gave us the tour of the Juliusspital had very recently had hip replacement surgery. She obviously recovered very well, with only the slightest of limps. Wow. Thirtysomething with a hip replacement. Scary.
We returned to the ship with the elaborate rooms and gardens of Wurzburg still dancing in our eyes. Medieval music later tonight but I don’t know if I can possibly stay awake.
There is a lecture going on presently, just audible from where I sit at the computer in the ship's library. "Mein is the most important tributary, flow together towards the city of Mainz distance of 326 miles, erratic course, changes directions from time to time, also called the 'curved snake.' Red wines due to the reddish soils. Main separates Germany into two halves, the equator of Germany. Area is known of the row of priests, three missionaries who catholicized the area, traveled along the Main and Christianized many of the Frankish tribes. Coal mineral water, coffee, wine."
The student in me feels a bit guilty that I am not sitting in the lounge with the others, but not guilty enough to get off the computer. You know how I much prefer to be writing longhand with black black ink on thick white paper, but emailing back relieves me somehow. I know that I can keep most of the events clear in my head – I hope!
posted by Articulate Pen @ 2:52 PM
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